You can cross the fields from the Sutor headland southward to a grove of beeches, beyond which is a stile taking you on to the steep cliffside path down to MacFarquhar’s Bed. This footpath can also be reached by a track starting at the Cromarty Mains cross-roads. You will come out in front of a spectacular natural stone arch, and beside it an open-sided grass-topped stone outcrop looking like a giant whale’s jaw. To the left are the large caves named for the mysterious MacFarquhar. It is only known that he was a smuggler, but his exploits have been lost in the mists of time. Miller made these caverns famous as a sometime haunt of gypsies, whose freewheeling lifestyle he reported on to the Inverness Courier in 1829 (A Noble Smuggler And Other Stories, ed Martin Gostwick).